How Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick Turned a 450 Sq Ft Hutment Into Kolkata's 140-Year Sweet Legacy
- Feb 23
- 7 min read
Around 1880, a 20-year-old from Konnagar in Hooghly district arrived in Calcutta with nothing but a skill and a dream. Ganesh Chandra Mullick had discovered early in life that he possessed an extraordinary talent for sweet-making. Now, standing in the bustling capital city, he took a job as a karigar—a worker—in a sweet shop in North Calcutta.
For three years, Ganesh worked, learned, and observed. North Calcutta was saturated with sweet shops, all competing for the same customers. But Ganesh noticed something: South Calcutta, particularly an area called Bhawanipore, was just beginning to develop. Trees and forests waited to be cleared. Elite families were establishing residences. And there were hardly any sweet shops.

In 1885, after walking miles searching for the perfect location, Ganesh rented 450 square feet of land from the wealthy Harlalkar family in Bhawanipore. He set up a makeshift hutment—a tiny kitchen on one side, heaps of coal stacked on the other, and a small counter for sales.
That humble beginning would become Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick—a name that 140 years later remains synonymous with Bengali sweet-making excellence, operating 15-17 outlets across Kolkata with a flagship store spanning 11,000 square feet, producing 150 varieties of sweets and snacks, and serving 500-1,000 customers daily.
This is the story of how one man's vision, passed through four generations, created not just a business but a piece of Kolkata's soul.
The Strategic Gamble
Ganesh Chandra Mullick wasn't just a skilled sweet-maker—he was a strategic thinker. While everyone else fought for customers in saturated North Calcutta markets, he chose undeveloped South Calcutta where competition was minimal but potential was enormous.
He began with Bengali classics: korapak sondesh and nolen gurer (jaggery) sondesh. The sweets were exceptional—made with care, using quality ingredients, and crafted with the precision that comes from genuine passion.
Word spread quickly. The area was home to notable figures, and soon Ganesh's sweets caught the attention of Sir Ashutosh Mukherjee, the legendary educator and Vice-Chancellor of Calcutta University who had an "incorrigible sweet tooth." Sir Ashutosh developed a great affinity for Ganesh's korapak guli sondesh made with nolen gur.
When a man of Sir Ashutosh Mukherjee's stature endorses your sweets, the entire elite class takes notice. Another notable patron was Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose, the freedom fighter whose family home was in the same Bhawanipore neighborhood.
Ganesh's rise among the establishment of Calcutta was swift. His 450-square-foot hutment became the destination for Bengali aristocracy seeking authentic, exceptional sweets.
The Family Expands: Balaram and Radharaman
As the business grew, Ganesh brought in family members to help manage the expanding operation. His brother Balaram Mullick and his son Radharaman Mullick joined the enterprise, eventually lending their names to the brand.
The shop became known as Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick—a name that honored the family partnership while maintaining Ganesh's founding vision. Under their joint stewardship, the business consolidated its reputation for uncompromising quality.
The tiny hutment began transforming. More space was needed. Better equipment was acquired. The product range expanded. But the fundamental commitment remained unchanged: make the finest Bengali sweets using traditional methods, quality ingredients, and meticulous care.
The Innovation That Made History
While maintaining tradition, Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick also pioneered innovations that would become legendary. The shop introduced Baked Rasogolla—a delightful twist on Bengal's most iconic sweet where the rasogolla is baked to create a caramelized exterior while maintaining the soft, syrupy interior.
They created Baked Doi—a creamy, baked yogurt dish that became a signature offering. Daab Sandesh, made with tender coconut, provided a light and refreshing alternative to heavier sweets.
During mango season, the shop introduced Mango Soufflé—a fusion dessert that combined Western technique with Bengali love for mangoes. These innovations didn't abandon tradition; they evolved it.
Sudip Mullick, the fourth-generation owner, notes that 99% of the sweets at BMRM are made from milk—the foundation of Bengali sweet-making. "Bengalis use milk a lot for making sweets. For several years, there was no mention of kaju katli, pinni, or even soan papdi in the region. It is only after trends changed, when people started migrating, that Bengali sweet shop owners started making these mithais," he explains.
Four Generations, One Vision
After Ganesh, Balaram, and Radharaman came Pradip Mullick (Radharaman's son), who stewarded the brand through the mid-to-late 20th century. Today, Sudip Mullick represents the fourth generation, balancing heritage with modernity.
The transformation from that 450-square-foot hutment with coal heaps to today's 11,000-square-foot flagship store is remarkable. The Bhawanipore location now features air-conditioned interiors, modern colorful décor, sweet and pastry counters, neat seating arrangements with bar stools, and LCD screens displaying catering services and kitchen activities.
But walk into any BMRM outlet, and you'll still taste Ganesh Chandra Mullick's commitment to quality. The recipes remain largely unchanged. The ingredients are carefully sourced. The production—now mechanized for mass production while maintaining high standards of quality and hygiene—still reflects the artisanal care that made the shop famous.
From Hutment to Empire
Today, Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick operates 15-17 outlets (sources vary on exact count) across Kolkata in locations including New Alipore, Santoshpur, Behala Manton, Thakurpukur, Tollygunge, Jadavpur, Mukundapur, and several others. The flagship store remains on Poddopukur Road in Bhawanipore—now 1,000 square feet compared to the original 450.
The business produces 150 varieties of sweets and snacks. Each store witnesses billing of 500-1,000 sweets and snacks daily. BMRM undertakes bulk orders for weddings across India and caters to online orders from all over the country through all-India delivery.
The company is officially registered as Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick Sweet Pvt. Ltd., maintaining its identity as a chain of sweet stores with "unique stigma in the mind of sweet lovers"—doing business within India and beyond the country's boundaries.
The Emotional Connection
For many, BMRM is more than just excellent sweets—it's nostalgia incarnate. Debolina Biswas, now living in Bengaluru, shared: "The sweet shop is all things nostalgia and Kolkata. It's a reminder of the good old college days when a visit to the store was all it took to turn a bad day good. I introduced my parents to Balaram Mullick and Radharaman Mullick when I was in college. And they have to visit the shop every time they are in Kolkata."
This emotional connection spans generations. Grandparents who bought sweets from Balaram and Radharaman now bring their grandchildren to taste the same recipes. The shop has witnessed Kolkata's transformation from colonial Calcutta to modern metropolis, remaining a constant through political upheavals, economic changes, and social transformations.
The COVID Challenge and Recovery
Like all sweet shops, BMRM faced enormous challenges during COVID-19. Lockdowns shuttered stores. Celebrations were canceled. Weddings were postponed. The sweet business—so dependent on festivals, gatherings, and celebrations—suffered dramatically.
But 140 years of legacy isn't easily defeated. BMRM adapted, strengthened online delivery, and emerged as customers returned to celebrate life's sweetness once restrictions lifted.
The Vision: Global Ambitions, Local Soul
Sudip Mullick has clear ambitions for BMRM's future—but they're carefully balanced. "Talking about the brand's future prospects, Sudip says he has no plans to expand in India, as he wants to keep the legacy of BMRM in Kolkata and the surrounding areas," one profile notes.
However, his big vision is international expansion—specifically Dubai and New Jersey—with one clear goal: "Similar to people who know the Taj Mahal from Agra, people have to recognize us, BMRM, from Kolkata."
In the next three years, Sudip plans to open five more shops, including one in Howrah. But the focus remains on Kolkata and its immediate surroundings. The strategy isn't about becoming the largest—it's about remaining the best while sharing Kolkata's sweet heritage with the world.
The Price of Heritage
Despite 140 years of legacy and premium quality, BMRM maintains reasonable pricing. A visit for two people costs around Rs 300-500, depending on items selected. Prices are slightly higher for innovative offerings like Mango Soufflé or Baked Rasogolla, but customers consistently note the experience is worth every rupee.
The shop is particularly busy during festivals, especially Durga Puja, when special seasonal sweets become available. Weekdays are recommended for those wanting to avoid rush hours and have leisurely browsing time.
The Recognition
BMRM has earned recognition as one of Kolkata's iconic heritage sweet shops. At 140+ years old, it's possibly one of India's oldest continuously operating sweet shops. The original Bhawanipore branch holds the most historic value, sitting where Ganesh Chandra Mullick first set up that 450-square-foot hutment.
The shop maintains active presence on Instagram (@balaram_mullick) with 20,000+ followers, sharing its heritage and contemporary offerings with digital audiences while maintaining the traditional in-store experience that has defined it for over a century.
The Essence of the Legacy
From 20-year-old Ganesh Chandra Mullick arriving in Calcutta with nothing but skill to Sudip Mullick planning international expansion while fiercely protecting Kolkata heritage, BMRM's story embodies several timeless principles.
First, strategic positioning beats head-on competition. Ganesh chose undeveloped Bhawanipore over saturated North Calcutta—a decision that gave him space to build without constant competitive pressure.
Second, quality creates its own marketing. Sir Ashutosh Mukherjee and Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose became patrons not because of advertising but because the sweets were genuinely exceptional.
Third, innovation within tradition sustains relevance. Baked Rasogolla and Mango Soufflé show you can evolve while respecting heritage.
Fourth, family succession works when vision aligns. Four generations have maintained Ganesh's commitment to quality—no easy feat for any family business.
Finally, emotional connection transcends transactions. BMRM isn't just where Kolkatans buy sweets—it's where they celebrate milestones, create memories, and connect with their city's soul.
The Living Legacy
Today, when Kolkatans enter any BMRM outlet and order korapak sondesh or nolen gurer sondesh—the same sweets Ganesh made in that hutment 140 years ago—they're tasting history. When they try Baked Rasogolla or Mango Soufflé, they're experiencing evolution.
The shop Sudip Mullick oversees with such responsibility isn't just a business passed down four generations. It's a piece of Kolkata—as essential to the city's identity as Victoria Memorial or Howrah Bridge.
Ganesh Chandra Mullick walked miles searching for the perfect location. He chose wisely. That 450-square-foot hutment in Bhawanipore became the foundation of a legacy measured not in years but in the smiles on faces tasting sweets that connect past to present, tradition to innovation, and Kolkata to the world.
From karigar to founder, from hutment to empire, from Calcutta to global dreams—Balaram Mullick & Radharaman Mullick proves that excellence, sustained across generations with uncompromising commitment, becomes not just a business but an institution.
And 140 years later, every rasogolla, every sandesh, every sweet tells the story of a young man from Konnagar who dared to dream in that developing corner of Bhawanipore—and created something that would outlive him by more than a century.
That's not just making sweets. That's making history—one carefully crafted, lovingly prepared, authentically Bengali sweet at a time.



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